The Spirit of the River Liffey - the river personified, from a series of carvings on the
facade of the Customs House

In early June of 2003, we travelled to the emerald isle on a journey to visit ancient and sacred sites around Ireland. Our tour leader, was Peter Vallance of Findhorn Sacred Journeys, with whom we’d previously travelled around Scotland.

Our first days in Ireland were spent in the bustling capital city of Dublin. Dublin is host to a number of excellent museums and collections to set the mood for future explorations of pre-Christian and early Celtic Christian sites. We visited the Book of Kells (as well as the phenomenal Long Room) at Trinity College and the National Museum for a chance to see some of the artifacts recovered from the sites we’d later be visiting.

Ha’ Penny Bridge at Night - one of the numerous bridges spanning the Liffey, this one pedestrians only.

Sheela-Na-Gig - one of several sheela-na-gig carvings being stored in the ‘crypt’ of the National Museum. We were lucky enough to be taken down into the basement storage to visit the sheelas, who were not currently on display. The Sheela-na-gig is an ancient fertility figure.

Leaving Dublin, we travelled to the Hill of Tara. We officially blessed our journey with water from the Well of the White Cow, a well cared for holy well near the hill itself. Around Tara, we visited a faery tree, where locals still leave offerings for the faery folk and investigated the carvings inside the Mound of the Hostages.

Stone of Destiny / Lia Fail, Hill of Tara - The mythical stone upon which the newly crowned King of Ireland would stand. The stone was said to cry out if the king was a true monarch. The Hill of Tara affords a sweeping view of the countryside around.

Our next day’s travels took us through Kildare where we had a chance to visit a number of sites associated with St. Brigid, as well as being likely used in pre-Christian worship of the Goddess Brigid. We stopped at 2 holy wells (where we made Brigid’s Crosses) and her cathedral (we even climbed to the top of the round tower to catch an excellent view of the surrounding lands. We also had time to wander the Japanese Gardens (an unexpected surprise in the Irish countryside). Perhaps the best surprise was the opportunity to meet with Sister Mary, one of the Brigidine nuns who live nearby at Solas Bride and tend her flame. She lit a candle for me from that flame and I now use it to light my own Brigid candle when I honour Her in ritual.

Kildare Cathedral - Inside the cathedral, there are extensive carvings of acorns and oak leaves (the association with the oak harkens back to the original spelling of Kildare - Cill Dara - church of the oak. The stained glass depicts scenes from the life of Saint Brighid.

Brigid’s Fire Temple - on the grounds of the current cathedral is the foundation of the much earlier fire temple associated with the saint (and with connections to the pre-Christian worship of the Goddess Brigid). Men were not permitted inside its precincts (and Tim wisely shot this photo from outside the foundation walls!).

St. Brigid’s Well (new location) - this site is supplied with water from the same source as the original, but with a roomier location. Water flows from the well site (far left of photo) underground and out through the 2 breast shaped openings into the pool.

St. Brigid’s Well - a closer look at the recently updated statue of Saint Brigid. This depiction shows Brigid in period clothing with shepard’s crook and her flame. Someone has added the Brigid’s cross of reeds.

From Kildare, we travelled to Lough Gur, sacred to the Goddess Aine. Around Lough Gur we visited the Grange stone circle and nearby stones and spent some time around the lake itself. Tim, Peter and Sue intrepidly descended into a cave said to be an entrance to Tir Nan Og. From there we hit the road further west to the Dingle peninsula.

Grange Stone Circle - the entrance to the stone circle, corresponding to its Imbulc and Samhain sunrise alignment.

Diarmid and Grainne’s Bed - a chambered tomb minus its cover of stone rubble and turf.

Walking the shore’s of Lough Gur - an ancient lake rich with myth.

St. Brigid’s Well near The Paps of Anu - On route, we stopped near the Paps of Anu to spend some meditative time with another Brigid’s Well (which also enjoyed Sue’s clearing it of water weeds).

From Dingle and our base at The Phoenix (a wonderful organic farm, restaurant and B&B) we travelled to numerous points around the south west of Ireland.

Ladies’ View (The Ring of Kerry) - one of the awesome vistas from the Ring of Kerry.

Dromoughty Stone Circle - somewhat off the beaten track, we stopped and spent some time at this compact circle on the road to the Beare Peninsula)

The Hag of Beare - carved by the weather, this ancient stone, different from the nearby geology, looks out to sea. She is still brought offerings (including coins, flowers, crystals and a pair of screaming red underpants!).

The town of Dingle is a wonderful spot - friendly people and cheerful surroundings even in the rain. We were able to wander the streets, take in some traditional music at a pub and a local concert, and do a bit of shopping too. Late one night on the road back to our B&B, we stopped at the beach. Still able to see with the lingering light, we spotted a sea otter running into the water!

Dingle Peninsula Coastline

Gallarus Oratory - a very early Celtic Christian oratory, of dry stone (no mortar at all) construction. It is watertight to this day.

Driving back towards the east and Dublin, we visited some important ancient sites, as well as locating a fourth Brigid’s Well and visiting the ruins of Fore Priory.

Clonmacnois - an early monastic settlement and home to a number of intricately carved Celtic High Crosses.

The Hill of Uisneach and the Stone of Divisions - stone is said to mark the mythological heart of the land and is an ancient rallying point.

Near Fore, we spent some time around the Loughcrew cairns. A number of hills in the area are topped with chambered tombs in various states of repair. Irish cairns from this period seem to be mostly blessed with an array of carved images. While some authorities speculate on the meanings of the symbols, they do remain an enigma.

Loughcrew - Slieve na Calliagh - the best preserved of the cairns, this hill features one main cairn (pictured) with a scattering of smaller cairns.

Loughcrew - The Hag’s Chair - a massive stone, a part of the kerbstones around the mound. This seat shaped perch is thought to be an auspicious place to make a wish. One feels very regal sitting here too.

Loughcrew - Inside the Cairn - a view of the back chamber of the cairn. Some of the most abundant carvings are located in this small rear chamber, with the back wall and ceiling being carved. During the Spring and Fall equinoxes, sunlight enters the cairn and strikes the symbols on the back wall.

Near the end of our journey, we spent the day at Bru na Boinne and the well known site of Newgrange and her sister sites of Knowth and Dowth.

Newgrange really is a must-see. Due to the high volume of interested visitors and the small size of the chamber, one is a afforded very little time in the tomb itself. Nonetheless, they do replicate the progress of the sun down the chamber entrance passage (and you can enter a lottery to be one of the lucky few who is allowed in at the winter solstice to witness the real thing) and the visitor’s centre is itself a masterpiece of accessible and interesting information about the site (including an incredible recreation of the tomb) and aesthetically wondrous too.

At Knowth, there is a bit more time for wandering the site and viewing the extensive carvings on the kerbstones.

Dowth, wilder still and somewhat forlorn, has not been restored and has had some of its earth plundered for local building.

Newgrange Kerbstone - the quintessential Newgrange photo, featuring the amazing triple spiral carvings on the distinctive kerbstone, plus the roofbox above the door where the light enters at the Winter solstice.

Knowth - a view of the extensively carved kerbstones at Knowth, as well as the fallen quartz stones that would have graced the mound (akin to restored quartz facade of Newgrange).

Knowth - a closer look at a carved stone.

Our journey nearing completion, we wrapped up at the Well of the White Cow, near Tara, where we’d originally blessed our travels. Back again, we gave thanks for our blessings and looked forward to more sacred travel in the future.

Our thanks to Peter and Sue for making our tour of sacred Ireland another wonderful and very special trip.

All photographs are the property of Tim Chisholm and Vanessa Smith and may not be used without permission.