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Our first few days were spent around Findhorn, visiting sites within driving distance of the Park, including Pictish stones and stone circles in Aberdeenshire (Cothiemuir Woods, Sunhoney, Midmar Kirk), Pictish sites around Burghead. As well there was time to enjoy the unique atmosphere around the Findhorn Foundation and meet the other members of our group and Peter, our tour leader |
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1. Nature Sanctuary at Findhorn - no, its not a Hobbit dwelling! This entire building was constructed of recycled material. The central space is round and is wonderfully peaceful inside. |
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2. Picardie Stone - our first Pictish stone displays one of the enigmatic symbols frequently used by the Picts |
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3. Cothiemuir Woods Recumbent Stone Circle - our group explores our first stone circle. This style of circle with recumbent stone flanked by two uprights can be seen throughout this part of Scotland. We visited two other circles on this day, one of which is still used by local Pagan groups. |
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On the fourth day of our tour, we set out to the north, to catch the ferry to the Orkney Islands. Along the way we visited Suenos Stone, the Pictish Museum, Clootie Well and the Grey Cairns of Camster. That night we stayed at Woodwick House and enjoyed their decadent hospitality. |
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4. Clootie Well - a sacred healing spring emerges from the hillside. Legend says one should wet a scrap of fabric (a cloot) in the water and touch it to whatever part of your body is ailing. The fabric is then tied to a tree branch, leaving the ailment behind. And dont remove someone elses cloth or youll be afflicted with their troubles! |
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5. The Grey Cairns of Camster - our first tombs, you can actually crawl through a narrow entrance passage to sit inside the cairn (thats what the cheerful yellow foam in the picture is for). |
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6. The view from inside the cairn - its a bit of a squeeze to get in but well worth it to experience the inside of these ancient spaces. |
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Once on the island we journeyed to various sites around the area over the next two days. We visited Skara Brae, a Neolithic Village, the stones of Stenness and Brogar, the enormous chambered tomb, Maes Howe, plus the smaller cairns of Mine Howe, Unstad and Cuween (where we actually lost time - most of the group went in for what seemed like 10-15 minutes but Art, who stayed outside timed it as 30-40 minutes) plus a side trip to sing to the seals. |
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7. Skara Brae - Not a tomb or ritual (possibly) circle but a village that was old when the pyramids were being built. This photo shows the indentations which are the remains of the individual houses. |
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8. Interior of Skara Brae House - stone work bed frames and fire pit, these surprisingly familiar spaces also included stone bureaus and shelves. |
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9. Mine Howe - whereas most chambered tombs are accessed by a horizontal passage, this tomb, newly opened to the public, is entered via a steep vertical staircase. Our group poses at the bottom of the stairs. |
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10. The Stones of Stenness - the only site on Orkney still closed (at that time) due to Foot and Mouth Disease. At least we could get a good look over the fence. Very "2001 a space odyssey", arent they? |
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11. Brogar Stone Circle - this is only a small portion of this immense and very complete stone circle. Where most of the other circles before this one were very human sized, Brogar makes you feel very tiny. |
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On day seven, we set off for the Hebridean island of Lewis, through the stark scenery of Northern Scotland. On Lewis, we were guided through the intricacies of the astronomical alignments of Callanish and associated circles in the area by Margaret Curtis, local archeologist and enthusiast. |
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12. Callanish at Sunset - we arrived on Lewis in time to catch the sun setting amidst the stones and clear views of the mountains called the Sleeping Goddess or Sleeping Beauty. |
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13. Gearrannan Black House Village - no, not someplace we visited, this is where we stayed! Our mouths just dropped when we pulled up. Authentic black houses have been modernized inside while maintaining the historic feel of the village. Ours was the house furthest right. |
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14. Triple Goddess Stones - three of the stones on the interior of this smaller circle near the main Callanish site have been equated with the aspects of Maiden (left stone is whitish), Mother (middle stone has a red cast and has contours that could correspond to breasts) and Crone (right stone is darker grey). There is also a very, ahem, male looking stone within the circle too. |
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15. Horned God stone - back at at main site, Tim mimics the pose of the figure naturally occurring in the stone (can you see him?) |
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16. Callanish Brighid Ritual - one my personal high points of the tour was leading a ritual welcoming the triple blessings of the Goddess Brighid inside the standing stones at Callanish. No, there were no lightning flashes or cosmic revelations but a strong sense that the stones welcomed us and recognized our purpose. When we finished and were walking back to the van, a white horse ran by on the road! |
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Day ten saw our longest drive yet, travelling from Lewis by ferry back to the mainland and onwards to the isle of Mull and over the water to Iona. Wed been told that even if its raining on Mull, the sun will be shining on Iona and lo and behold, it was true. |
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17. Iona Abbey - a lovely abbey, full of elegant simplicity. |
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18. Celtic Cross at the Abbey - one of a number of beautiful crosses in the churchyard. |
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19. the view from atop Dun I - we climbed to the top of Ionas largest hill for panoramic views of the island and to visit the Well of Eternal Youth at the top. |
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That concluded our pilgrimage around Scotland...Tim and I were so impressed by the quality of the tour and the amount of care put into the itinerary that were already planning to take another tour with Findhorn Sacred Journeys and our excellent leader, Peter Vallance, this time to Ireland. The trip balanced archeological and historical information with myth and storytelling. Group sizes are small (ours was six people), accommodations were interesting and comfortable, food was excellent (profiteroles! vegetarian haggis! lots of yummy organic and vegetarian foods) and every detail was considered (Peter had strips of cloth for us to use at the Clootie Well, produced just as I was contemplating sacrificing a sock...) All photographs are the property of Tim Chisholm and Vanessa Smith and may not be used without permission. |